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TRAVEL

A coastal Maine tip: Don’t bypass Belfast

Have a seat and take in the view at the Fireside Inn & Suites Ocean’s Edge on Penobscot Bay.Pamela Wright

BELFAST, Maine — We discovered Belfast by default. Our plan was to hook up with out-of-town friends as they toured the coast of Maine. Camden was not in the budget; Bar Harbor was sold out. But then we saw a listing for the Fireside Inn & Suites in Belfast.

Huh. The waterfront hotel had great reviews and affordable prices. And Belfast, on the northern edge of Penobscot Bay, was less than 30 minutes from Camden and under an hour and a half from Bar Harbor.

It turned out that this often-bypassed coastal town is a hip little enclave, with a rich maritime history, cleaned-up waterfront, and a compact, walkable downtown filled with boutique shops, galleries, and restaurants. The town was rebuilt after two major fires in 1865 and 1873, and now boasts one of the best extant brick commercial districts in Maine, chock-a-block with 19th-century Federal, Greek Revival, Italianate, and Queen Anne architecture.

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Start by booking rooms at the Fireside Inn & Suites Ocean’s Edge, a long walk (about 1½ miles) or short drive to downtown. The rooms and suites at the inn all have views of Penobscot Bay, and some come with fireplaces and massage chairs. There’s also an indoor heated mineral pool and sauna, a welcomed amenity after a day of exploring.

The Museum in the Streets in Belfast features 30 descriptive panels, detailing the city’s rich history. Pamela Wright

First stop

Begin your visit at the Belfast Historical Society & Museum to get an overview of the town and its history as a prosperous shipbuilding center; in the mid-19th century, Belfast shipyards built more than 600 sailing vessels, and 30 percent of its male population was employed in the maritime trades. The museum also offers one-hour guided walking tours every Friday at 1 p.m., July to August ($10 suggested donation). You can also pick up walking tour brochures and maps, including a guide to the Museum in the Streets, featuring 30 historical panels and two maps located throughout downtown.

We’d spend more time touring the city’s historical sights later in our visit. Instead, we pocketed the tour maps and headed straight to the Harbor Walk. The mile-long paved walkway begins at the Belfast Boathouse at the edge of downtown and skirts the shoreline with parks and pretty views along the way. It ends at the Armistice Footbridge over the Passagassawakeag River. (The locals call it the “Passy.”) If you have the time and energy, continue on the 2.3-mile Passy Rail Trail, a crushed stone trail along the river, following the route of the Belfast & Moosehead Lake Railroad, and ending at the Belfast & Moosehead Lake Railroad City Point station.

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Downtown Belfast is fill of 19th-century Federal, Greek Revival, Italianate, and Queen Anne architecture. Pamela Wright

You’ve got to have art

Belfast has become a lively hub for the arts. It hosts Fourth Friday Art Walks July through October, and is home to the annual Arts in the Park, one of the best arts and fine crafts festivals in Mid-Coast Maine, with more than 100 juried artists (June 29-30). No worries if you can’t make these events; the compact downtown has a variety of galleries and studios for art lovers. Stop by Waterfall Arts featuring rotating exhibitions and art shows. They also hold a weekly art market in conjunction with the Belfast Farmers’ Market, featuring local and regional artists and craft makers (June-September). Parent Fine Art features the photography of Maine artist Neil Parent and the work of other artists. Lupine Cottage represents more than 65 Maine artists selling handmade jewelry, woodwork, clothing, quilts, rugs, paintings, specialty food items, and more. Check out the bright and airy Local Color Gallery with a high-quality selection of local artwork, and rotating exhibitions. Grab a coffee and snacks on the café and deck at Mainely Gallery Studio, and then check out the works of some 25 local artists.

Belfast has some fun, independent shops, too, including Coyote Moon, with women’s clothing and accessories; the Good Table, with a wide selection of cookware and kitchen gadgets, and Vinolio, with olive oils, balsamic vinegars, and other specialty foods. Who doesn’t love an independent bookstore? Belfast has two. Don’t miss a browse in Left Bank Books, a friendly, inviting store with an impressive selection of books for all ages and interests, and pop into the Grump & Sunshine if romance novels are your thing.

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And you have to eat…

And there are plenty of choices. Darby’s is a longstanding local favorite, a comfy tavern with an antique bar, tin ceiling, brick walls and thick wooden beams, serving farm-fresh, feel-good food, like burgers, rice bowls and fish and chips. If you’re craving red sauce and pasta, head to cozy Delvino’s. James Beard award-winning Chase’s Daily specializes in baked goods and vegetarian dishes made with produce from their own family farm. You can’t beat the location of the Front Street Pub, with an outdoor deck and views of the harbor. The lively bar has a nice selection of Maine beers on tap, and high-quality pub fare (Maine-raised beef burgers, hand-cut fries, and locally caught seafood). Rollies is a local hangout with stiff drinks and decent burgers and pizza, and a popular happy hour. Bell the Cat is a cute little café with a wide selection of freshly made soups, salads, and sandwiches. Harborwalk, located next to the Front Street Shipyard, is a come-as-you-are, family-friendly joint serving decent pub grub. Craving lobster? Bring your own beer and wine and pick your own lobster at Young’s Lobster Pound, and then grab a seat on the outside deck overlooking the harbor. It doesn’t get much better than this — dining on butter-dipped, fresh-caught steamed lobster in sight, sound, and smell of the ocean. For more information, visit www.belfastmaine.org.


Diane Bair and Pamela Wright can be reached at bairwright@gmail.com